GE washer makes a clicking sound and will not spin FREE $0 FIX
‘My GE has started making clicking noises during the agitation cycle. Then it stopped agitating at all, then started up again. It seems to have trouble agitating with a larger load. At first it was spinning OK, but now the clicking happens during the spin cycle, too.’
My washing machine works fine until it gets to the spin cycle. The it makes this clicking sound and makes the power in house dim and come back on several times.
I have created a free fix that will prevent you from having to pay $150 for a new motor on the GE Washers that make a clicking sound from the motor.
If this fix works for you please provide a comment along with yoru model# so that others will know which models have this problem.
Worked like a million bucks! Thanks
I performed this fix – the low speed agitator was not functioning so I tied it into the high speed agitator. However, now the machine causes the breaker to flip when it “switches” from high to low speed agitation.
I had thought this would cause it to simply high speed agitate even in low setting, is this not what should happen?
any thoughts why it would cause the breaker to flip? All other modes are still working fine.
If my washer is making the noise in both the fast and slow mode I’m assuming that the motor is bad and should replace it?
beemerLM@gmail.com
Perfect fix, now washer works fine with no noise. Model WLSE3159A0WW
Thanks for your knowledge on this fix.
wbse3120b3ww
worked like a champ
This fix worked on my wpse4200a0ww. My low speed is the one that was not working,
Thank you very much. It worked just fine. Very easy to understand. My slow speed was also the problem
My model is GE Profile Prodigy WBSE4220A0WW
Thanks again!!!
Thank you! I did it exactly the way you did in your video and it worked. My low speed was the one with the clicking sound and my washer is a GE WCSE3100A.
I’m the one who originally uploaded that clicking noise video on YouTube. I did it so I could explain the problem to someone at an appliance parts store.
Back then I ended up replacing the motor ($130 from ebay). It’s years later now and the replacement motor started doing the same. I was convinced there had to be another way to work around the problem. Thank goodness I found your article.
I pulled the white wire from the motor connector and spliced it into the blue wire. That did the trick on mine. I’m surprised how many times the clicking video was viewed. Glad you could use it to help others like me.
Thanks again. Chris
I did test and the high speed part of the motor is bad. Mine starts clicking on the 6th click which is my violet and white wire according to the manual, the low is the yellow wire. I do I put them together, can’t afford a washer right now so have to be careful not to kill my washer with no money. Do I put it in the place of the violet wire or connect them together and put black tape on it. Thank you so much in advance for your help
I just tried this fix on my Whirlpool Washer LA5580XTW1. Found the schematic inside and saw that the white/black wire is the low speed, white is the high speed. I cut the white/black wire, spliced it into the white wire. To my surprise, I still have the clicking when it switches to low speed agitate. Any advice?
YOu did something wrong. First you do the test to see if the high speed works.
If the high speed works in the test then you will not get clicking when you do the fix. If you still get clicking then you did it wrong. You likely wired it to the low speed.
I just did this today, and it is working great, so far. I’m not a repairman or very handy (I’m a band director and have a degree in conducting!), but this was very simple to do. I have the exact model that’s in the video otherwise I may have been too scared to try it. The bottom line for me was that it didn’t really matter. I would have replaced the washer regardless. Thank you!
Worked great on model # WBSE2090AZWW. You don’t have to cut the blue wire. You can just strip off enough of the insulation to wrap the white wire around. Good idea to solder it all together, then tape it. You can cut it too, then twist the three together, solder, and tape or wire nut together. My thinking is the same as another poster: do lighter loads since it’s always on Turbo!
Thanks so much!!! Low speed winding was faulty. Spliced white wire to blue and it’s fixed! You’re awesome! WBSE2090A2WW model
worked on ge model wbb330a2ww. thank you
I still don’t understand how I connect the white wire to the blue wire. I cut the white wire and tape end going to motor but how do I connect the other end of white wire to the blue wire? Do I cut the blue wire and then twist up and tape the 2 ends of blue wire with the one end of white wire?
TIA!
Worked for model WCSE3100
can someone walk me thru how to attach the white wire to the blue wire after I cut the white wire? Do I need to cut the blue wire? Help a brother out! TIA.
Thanks for your reply. I’m not real technical. My service manual looks exactly like your video. So I cut the white wire and tape off one end. Next I’m unsure? Do I strip off plastic from the end of white wire and also strip off some plastic from the blue wire and then wire them up together and then cover in electrical tape. I’m unsure of this part but it does look easy. I really thank you.
Do I need to cut the blue wire?
My washer has the exact problem you show and also the same wire set up on the service manual. My question is when I cut the white wire do I splice it into the blue wire or just tape it to the blue wire?? I’m ready to try this but need this answer first please. Thanks for this advise.
How long will the fix last? For me about 1-1/2 years. Because the drive has no choice but to spin a full load at high speed, the motor & gearbox now works much harder in the spin cycle. It no longer has the gradual spin feature. It’s turbo or nothing! So I always told my wife to keep the wash loads medium to small. Well my daughter did a medium to large load and stripped the gear box. It simply could not spin all that weight from 0 to 60 in seconds as the washer wanted to. So if you want to keep that GE working, my only suggestion is to keep the loads small to ease up on torque imposed on the gearbox. Ignore this and you will be buying a new washer sooner than you think!!
I now own a Maytag…..no more worries
I just wanted to submit a “thank you” on this posting. The problem was exactly what I was having with my GE washing machine and the solution you posted was very well explained and worked like a charm. Thanks for saving me from having to get a new washing machine (for now) 🙂